October 12, late Thursday night, I arrive in Roswell, New Mexico.
The greeting is all I could have hoped for: the airport and most of the town adorned with green, almond eyed aliens and Mercury-coloured flying saucers.
Just before dawn on eclipse day, we begin an unforgettable road trip to Albuquerque with Venus the morning star shining pin-sharp above deep ochre and electric blue skies.
As we arrive we’re greeted by the sight of 20 or more hot air balloons floating like some vivid candy store.
They’re part of the festival and are a curtain raiser for the astronomical clockwork set to unfold.
Our taxi spots a patch of waste ground at the side of Route 66 and we turn in.
Twenty minutes later and that first ‘bite’ is taken out of the Sun: the annular solar eclipse has begun.
First contact comes right at the top of the solar disc, 12 o’clock position.
From here, things happen quickly. The partial phases push forward, blotting out a pair of sunspots as they make their silent, unstoppable celestial progress.
With about 15% of the Sun remaining, I am fascinated to see the effect upon the heat and light of the day: the warmth of the New Mexican morning Sun has now been cut off.
There’s a subtle difference to the daylight too, as though the sunshine has had thinners added to it, like a grey gel filter placed in front of a theatrical spotlight.
The differences are less marked than with a total solar eclipse but they’re there nonetheless and captivating!
As 10.35am Mountain Daylight Time approaches, the part of this annular eclipse that shall stay in my memory for all my remaining days begins.
The crescent of the Sun turns into a horseshoe, then a sickle, the horns of this thin curve of sunlight gradually reaching towards one another.
An effervescent, silk-thin line of light sizzles through the topography of the Moon’s surface. What a unique and beautiful way to behold Bailey’s Beads!
Then, the most mesmerizing moment of all, the two tips of sunlight delicately join together like a stellar version of Michaelangelo’s Creation of Adam.
The ring of fire
Now the eclipse takes the form of the ‘ring of fire’. The annularity is absolutely awe inspiring!
At the same time I can’t help but feel sorry for the drivers passing by quite normally who seem utterly oblivious to the spectacle taking place.
Taking another look at the shadows through the shrubs, they now show innumerable rings as though the tree is adorned with Christmas baubles.
For five beautiful minutes the annularity remains steady and stunning. I observe every moment, not wishing to take my view away from the solar binoculars.
Then the annular Baileys Beads appear again at the base of the Sun, the line of sunlight delicately breaks and annularity is over.
Partial phase, act two is now underway. Such fleeting fascination! Time to head back to Roswell.
Eclipse after effect
It’s a profound feeling immediately after eclipse – a peaceful euphoria, a new lifelong memory forever etched into your being.
An hour later, stopping at a gas station, I have one final look through the solar binoculars at the closing partial phases.
Just a little bite out the Sun remains, at the 7 o’clock position.
I always make sure to observe these last moments; it’s a way of saying goodbye to the eclipse.
The following day I’m reflecting on this magical experience during a stroll around Bottomless Lakes State Park just outside of Roswell, a collection of lakes formed by underwater springs filling huge areas of subsidence.
This area looks like the perfect hybrid of Earth and Mars, and a verse for the eclipse comes to mind…
The Sun and the Moon are dancing, Circles in the Sky,
The shadow is advancing, But the Dragon passes by.
And when the dance is over, At the end of Sol’s dark night,
Great mystery reveals itself, and the darkness turns to light.